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Tormentas,
le grand vin du Brésil - Présentation
en Français |
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Tormentas
is probably the finest wine ever elaborated
in Brazil, and the only “boutique
winery” product for sale in the world
elaborated through manual destemming, which
makes it rare and different from any other
top quality wine. Steven Spurrier, from
Decanter Magazine in London, and Peter Thustrup,
from Vins Rares Peter Thustrup in Paris,
are two celebrities known world-wide who
tasted and congratulated this thrilling,
very natural and authentic red wine.
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A
presentation by the winemaker: |
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“I
try to conceive my wines as Minimal Art
creations, so to speak: the more minimal
the intervention, the more natural and authentic
the result”
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First
of all, thank you very much for your interest
in my work.
I’m
working hard (swimming against the current)
to change and surpass the anachronic preconception
about the quality of our national wine,
grown after years of mistaking by our past
generations. My terroir is in Encruzilhada
do Sul, South Brazil, one of the youngest
new regions for viniculture in the country.
There I depart from the top quality Brazilian
fruit.
I
know later or soon the results of my personal
efforts will be compensated, but by now
I am trying to sell my small and relatively
expensive production abroad in order to
support the continuity of my project, as,
unfortunately, Brazilian specialized media
is too busy with the engagement to promote
big Chilean and Argentinean wine companies
here to spend their precious time to pay
attention to minor "art happenings"
as my winemaking conception, in despite
of the absolute singularity of my approach,
which consists basically in the manual harvest
of the best fruits from the best Brazilian
vineyard, located on our best new terroir,
followed by a singular process in the whole
commercial winemaking world: manual destemming.
In other words: each individual grape is
separated from the stem by hand, under visual
selection. In the little book of my wine
(you can see it on this web site) I expose
in detail the unique results assured by
this method. There is no English version
for the whole site yet, but I will give
you here a synthesis of the main information
about my method, throughout explained in
the book:
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1. Manually
selected harvest arrives to the atelier;
2. In a “clinically”
cleaned and sterilized environment, grapes
are manually destemmed. Only 100% healthy
fruits are selected and crushed into the
tank for skin contact. Bad fruits are visually
separated and refused. Manual separation
also assures that 100% of the stems are
eliminated. Such a purity of fruit content
is impossible to obtain with any automatic
destemmer-crusher machine employed worldwide
by the traditional industrial winemaking
systems;
3. Once this perfect and
pure fruit is crushed, skin contact process
takes place. Extraction is reinforced and
enhanced by manual remontage, several times
by day. As no stem fragment or its juice
is allowed to enter in the process, skin
contact can be throughout prolonged in order
to push extraction of colour and other positive
elements from the fruit without affecting
the elegance of the planned wine due to
the inconvenient incorporation of rough
green tannins from the stems;
4. I strongly believe oak
contact and stem contact (caused by the
violence of automatic destemming process,
which can hurt stems and cause their fragments
and liquid to be incorporated) frequently
add to most of commercial wines a background
noise we are so used to, we can't even perceive.
Both substances add to the majority of the
wines known the same sensorial descriptors,
not only accepted, but also generally desired.
As a matter of fact, there is a general
harshness in most wines, which trends to
mellow with time. But stocking is one of
the expensive factors on winemaking. How
to wait always so long, and how to always
lose some delicate floral and fruit notes
only I young red can show? On my approach
for winemaking, both substances are avoided.
It is not a statement of the absolute truth,
as there is no absolute truth regarding
to the wine world – thanks God, literally!
But it is rather a choice and an individual
style of winemaking: my wines are structured
only over mature fruit tannins coming from
the fruit skin, which assure immediate mellowness
in harmony with moderate, well balanced
astringency. As we know, tannins and other
phenols and substances coming from oak or
stems have different natures than those
found in the skins, and they usually overwhelms
delicate fruit notes with rough aggressive
resin or herb greenness. Tannins are known
as essential for good “keeping”
or aging qualities, but they are generally
responsible for the long time some wines
need to be ready for appreciation. Astringency
mellows with bottle aging, of course, and
the chemical reduction of certain compounds
into others, primarily by hydrolysis or
oxidation, and the joining together of short
molecular chains into larger ones, cause
the volatile esters, ethers and acids to
create the characteristic and so wanted
bouquet. But we cannot deny the subtle qualities
lost in the process, as floral, fresh red
fruit, and a myriad of other delicate nuances.
It seems impossible to keep one virtue without
excluding the other. Through my personal
wine style, I try to know, to explore, to
keep and to bring in evidence these primitive,
delicate notes;
5. Thanks to my personal
method, in despite of being concentrated
and well structured, my wines are already
smooth in the very first youth. You can
appreciate a fully bodied Cabernet Sauvignon
on the same year of the harvest. And not
only this: the absolute absence of oak and
the green tannins coming from stems (and
their liquid) assures not only mellowness,
but also an unique expression of the fruit.
For example, you can experiment a singular
expression of Cabernet Sauvignon abstracting
the characteristic green herb wildness of
this variety and replacing it by subtle
flower and fruit notes usually omitted or
even lost. In short, this is the most fascinating
exclusiveness we can find in my wines: a
singular terroir in the world; a singular
elaboration approach in the world, and a
unique, singular expression of the variety
in the world;
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Last considerations |
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1. The main approach
of my proposal is to express land, fruit
and harvest with the less possible human
intervention. No chemical corrections and
additives of any order and nature are allowed
in the process, but the insignificant 45mg/L
SO?. There is a plan to suppress even added
yeast. I have been an artist for all my
life, and so my wines are strongly inspired
in art creation. Quantity is very low (1.400
bottles per year), so each bottle is manually
numerated as a fraction of the whole and
signed, like a lithographic art piece. I
try to conceive my wines as Minimal Art
creations, so to speak: the more minimal
the intervention, the more natural and authentic
the result;
2. Tormentas is a millésime.
As no artificial corrections or even blends
with previous wines are allowed to improve
or correct a given harvest, Tormentas will
not be issued every year – it is the
case of the Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, when
trying to overmature fruit, I lost too much
acidity and color, and partial botrytization
of the harvest took place. So this vintage
will be launched under a new label. The
result was a sweet, alcoholic liquorous
wine, differing too much from Tormenta’s
style. Blended with 25% of the gorgeous,
perfect Alicante Bouschet 2006, a fine balance
and originality was found, and Minimus Anima
was born. Here we have a good price for
a rare, unique wine.
3. Needless to say chaptalisation
is out of my vocabulary. On the last harvest
(2005), we have reached to a historical
record of 16,26 % vol. of natural alcohol
on the Tannat variety from our vines, in
Encruzilhada do Sul. The same happened in
2006. It expresses the serious improvements
we are applying on the field, regarding
to the fruit quality in detriment of quantity.
I am very concerned on improving natural
concentration of my wines, each year. But
I refuse any fashioned behaviour. I am not
against “technological wines”,
but it is not my cup of tea. So, even if
my Tormentas Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 expressed
13,5 % vol. of natural alcohol, its color
is far different from its Chilean and Argentinean
homonyms. It express not only fidelity to
the typicality of the variety grown under
the nature and conditions of our terroir,
but also my refusal to the employment of
enzymes to improve color extraction and
even blends with color varieties of grapes,
if merely added to assure a fashionable
deepness of color.
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Marco DANIELLE
art winemaker
art photographer
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Who is Marco
Danielle: Born
in Caxias do Sul, South Brazil, 1966, with
Italian roots and double-citizenship, he
descends from the large community of northern
Italian from Venice who immigrated to south
Brazil on the second half of 19th century.
This valorous working people, as well as
the German immigrants whom sat on the same
region, among many contributions for the
country are responsible for the wine history
in Brazil. They brought the first plants
in their luggage, on the early 1875, and
from that time on, never stopped making
their wine. Nowadays, almost 100% of Brazilian
wineries belong to the northern Italian
descendants.
Graduated in Advertising,
he has more than twenty years experience
as a fine art and commercial photographer;
and had had a studio and a small publishing
company for fine art photography in Paris,
where his interest for wine grew and he
started his self-education on winemaking.
When he left France, a French editor bought
the rights of some art photos from his personal
collection, which are published and sold
in Paris till today. The same passion and
enthusiasm that he has for his art has been
put into the crafting of his wine, always
looking for perfection. The same hope to
convey originality, the same passion that
moved his art creation has been put into
his winemaking approach, and he deeply believe
the reflex of this ideal can be found on
each bottle of his wine, perhaps the only
wine offered for sale in the world that
is 100% hand crafted.
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* * * |
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Some information
about 2004 vintage (Tormentas):
Total quantity of bottles produced : 491
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Density of the departure juice at 20o C:
d = 1,100; or 24o Brix
Natural alcohol: 13,5% vol.
SO2 level: 45mg/L
Prix FOB (last bottles)
US$ 180.00 Tormentas Secundo 2004
(box 6 bottles)
US$ 735.00 Tormentas Premium 2004
(box 6 bottles)
* * *
Some information about 2005 vintage
(Minimus Anima):
Total quantity of bottles produced: 1.400
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon late harvest
+ Alicante Bouschet
Density of the departure juice at 20o C:
d = 1,100; or 24o Brix
Natural alcohol: over 13,5% vol. (not tested
yet)
Prix FOB (to be bottled on November 2006)
US$ 120.00 Minimus Anima 2005
(box 6 bottles)
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Observações
Gerais:
Vinhos
de “vinicultura radical”, 100% naturais
(sem aditivos);
Elaboração por desengace manual das bagas;
Uvas de Encruzilhada do Sul-RS, exclusivamente;
Caixas (6 unidades) têm desconto e remessa é
gratuita
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Livro
de Tormentas
Edições da Pluma Negra
2005
48 páginas
R$ 30,00 (remessa gratuita)
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Safra
2004:
Tormentas Premium
Cabernet Sauvignon
Disponível sob consulta
Dados
Enológicos
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Safra
2005:
Minimus Anima
Cabernet Sauvignon tardia
+ Alicante Bouschet
Disponível em novembro de 2006
R$ 58,00 (un.)
Dados
Enológicos |
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Safra
2006:
Tormentas Merlot + Tannat
Tormentas Pinot Noir +Alicante
Disponíveis em 2007 e 2008
Tormentas Pinot Noir tardia
(vinho de guarda) Disponível
em 2010
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